Usually part of the job
Marking positions with you, one core hole, the pipe length supplied with the unit, sealing the opening and the final checks.
Air conditioning · New split units
Air conditioner installation planned from the wall to the facade
Air conditioner installation means mounting a split unit you have already bought: fixing the indoor and outdoor halves, drilling through the wall, running the copper lines, drain and cable, then testing the system. The price depends on the length of the pipe route, the wall material and how the outdoor position can be reached. Send photos of the room and the facade, then book by call, text or WhatsApp, with everything arranged in English.
- You buy the unit, we plan and fit it
- Positions agreed with you before drilling
- Drain and power route thought through first
- Test run in front of you at the end
The job
What a standard installation includes
Most requests are for one wall-mounted split unit in a bedroom or living room, although larger flats often fit two or three at once.
A standard job covers mounting the indoor unit on its plate, fixing the outdoor unit on a bracket or stand, drilling one wall opening, connecting the refrigerant lines, cable and drain hose, evacuating the lines and running the system. Anything unusual, such as a very long route or special facade access, is priced separately and confirmed from your photos.
Discussed separately
Extra copper pipe, decorative trunking, a condensate pump, a new electrical line and any crane or rope access.
Not something we supply
The air conditioner itself. You buy it from a shop of your choice, and we can look at the model before you pay.
Placement
Choosing where the indoor and outdoor units go
The position decides how well the room cools, how noisy it feels at night and how easy the unit will be to service later.
The indoor unit
The best spot is high on a wall where air can travel across the room without hitting a wardrobe. Leave clear space above the unit for air intake. In a bedroom, avoid aiming the airflow straight at the bed, and keep the unit away from the stove, where grease would coat the filters within weeks.
- An outside wall is easiest, because the pipes go straight through behind the unit.
- An inner wall is possible, but the lines then cross the room in a channel or inside the plaster.
- Think about who will reach the unit to wash the filters, especially above a staircase.
The outdoor unit
The outdoor half needs free airflow around its fins and a solid surface. A balcony floor or a bracket right next to the window is ideal, because a technician can reach it later without climbing. Never box the unit into a closed cupboard, and consider the neighbors: the compressor hums at night, and warm air should not blow into someone else's window.
Your building
Facade rules, landlords and the residents' association
An outdoor unit hangs on a shared wall, so it is not always only your decision.
Many new-build towers in Saburtalo, Vake and Dighomi were designed with a technical niche or a marked zone for outdoor units, and the building administrator may insist on it. Some residents' associations also forbid units on the street facade. In older blocks the rules are often informal, but a neighbor downstairs can still object to a drain dripping onto their balcony.
Historic streets in Sololaki, Old Tbilisi and Mtatsminda deserve extra caution, because a unit on a decorated front facade may be unwelcome. We do not give legal advice, so ask the building management or your landlord what is allowed. A courtyard wall is often the simplest answer.
- Tenants: get the owner's written agreement for drilling, and settle who pays and who keeps the unit when you leave.
- Photograph the wall before and after, which helps when the deposit is discussed.
Drilling and pipes
Drilling the wall and planning the pipe route
Between the two halves run two insulated copper lines, a control cable and the drain hose, bundled together through one opening.
The opening is made with a core drill and angled slightly downward toward the outside, so rain and condensate never run back into the room. Soviet-era panel buildings have hard reinforced concrete, while some older houses in Vera have thick stone walls that take longer. The route is kept as short as practical, since every extra meter adds cost.
| Situation | Typical route | What to keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| Unit on an outside wall, outdoor half right behind it | Straight through the wall behind the indoor unit | Shortest and neatest, almost nothing visible inside |
| Unit on an inner wall | Along the ceiling or wall to the outside wall | Needs trunking or a chased channel, and a good drain slope |
| Black frame or white frame flat before finishing | Lines laid in the wall or floor before plaster | Plan it with your renovation team, and photograph the route before it is covered |
| Outdoor unit on the roof or a far balcony | Long run through a shaft or along the facade | Priced individually, within the unit's maximum pipe length |
If you are renovating, decide the positions before plastering, so the pre-laid lines can be tested and capped. Drilling dust always travels, and post-renovation cleaning is an option when several units go in at once.
Water and electricity
The condensate drain and a dedicated power line
Where the water goes
In cooling mode a split unit pulls several liters of water a day out of humid air, and that water has to flow downhill all the way from the indoor tray. The simplest outlet is a hose ending outside, placed so it does not drip onto a neighbor's balcony or a shop entrance. Otherwise the hose can join a sewer line through a trap, or a small condensate pump lifts the water. A badly sloped drain is a classic cause of the problems on our AC leaking water page.
Why the unit needs its own circuit
A split unit draws a steady load for hours, and the original aluminum wiring in older buildings was never meant for that. A shared kitchen socket or an extension cord invites warm plugs and tripped breakers. For larger units or old wiring, the right answer is a separate cable from the panel with its own breaker. That is electrician's work, arranged through our electrician page (in Georgian).
Never test a new socket or connect wiring yourself before the unit arrives. Leave all live electrical work to a qualified electrician.
Access and the unit
High facades, special access and buying the unit
An outdoor unit on the second floor next to a balcony is routine. The same unit on the ninth floor of a Gldani block, on a wall without a balcony, is a different job. It may need rope access or a lifting platform, always agreed and priced separately after we see the facade. Our external lift and crane page explains how such access is judged from photos.
Before you buy
- Match the capacity to the room: an undersized unit runs flat out all summer, while an oversized one cycles on and off and leaves the air clammy.
- Check the length of the pipe kit in the box and whether a wall bracket is included.
- Send us the model name before paying, and we will say whether the planned route suits it.
Keep the receipt and the manual, because the shop's terms decide what happens if the unit itself is faulty.
Finishing
Commissioning checks before the technician leaves
Hanging the units is only half the work. The last part decides whether the system runs well for years.
- 1
Leak test
The connections are tightened to the correct torque and checked for leaks before any refrigerant leaves the outdoor unit.
- 2
Evacuation
Air and moisture are pulled out of the new lines with a vacuum pump. Skipping this shortens compressor life, and poor joints are why people later read our AC gas refill advice.
- 3
Test run and drain check
The valves are opened, the unit runs in cooling mode, and water is poured into the tray to prove the drain flows freely.
- 4
Handover
You see the remote settings, learn where the filters are and get photos of the outdoor position for your records.
After the first season, see our AC cleaning page for upkeep, and the AC repair and service hub for every other job.
FAQ
Frequently asked questions
How much does air conditioner installation cost in Tbilisi?
It depends on the pipe length, the wall, the floor and any special access. Send the model name and photos of both positions for an estimate before the visit. Extra materials are agreed in advance.
Do you sell air conditioners?
No. You buy the unit yourself, from any shop you like. We can look at the model and your photos first and tell you whether it fits the planned route.
How long does one installation take?
A single unit with a short route usually fits into one visit. Long routes, several units or facade access take longer, and the timing is confirmed when booking.
Can you install a unit in a flat that is still being renovated?
Yes, and it is often the best moment. The lines and drain can be laid inside the walls before plastering, then the units are hung once the dusty work is finished.
My landlord agreed to an air conditioner. What should I get in writing?
Who pays for the unit and the installation, where the units may go, and whether the unit stays in the flat when you move out. A short message thread with photos is usually enough.
Can you move an air conditioner I already own to a new flat?
Yes. The refrigerant is collected in the outdoor unit first, then the system is refitted and tested at the new address. Our apartment moving team can carry the rest of your things.
Is it a problem if my flat has old aluminum wiring?
It can be. The technician will look at the socket and the panel, and if the wiring is not suitable, a separate line from the panel should be run by an electrician first.
Contact
Plan your new air conditioner
Tell us the model and send a photo of each position, and we will reply with the next step.
Send a short description
Mention the model, the district, the floor and whether the flat is rented or your own.
Next step
Get your installation planned
A model name and two photos are enough to start.